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The Front Yard at Ellis Island
Brock Radke
Thu, Oct 14, 2021 (2 a.m.)
InLondon, where Martin Kirrane was operating a couple small butcher shops before recently relocating to Las Vegas, doing what he does is fairly standard practice.
“Small fish in a big pond,” he says. “There were five other butchers within two square miles. Here, we’ve been open just a few months and already been noticed by local chefs and [customers]. You could be in London for 20 years and that might not happen.”
Photo: Wade Vandervort
Steaks at Featherblade
Indeed, local foodies and restaurant folks are making a fast favorite of Featherblade English Craft Butchery at West Charleston and Durango. Kirrane and his American wife opened the shop in June, recognizing “what I do as the norm could actually be something special here,” since the Valley isn’t flush with independent butchers.
Featherblade is all about full animal butchery and only offers meats and products from ethical and sustainable sources. Among its suppliers are Las Vegas Livestock—the Combs family’s pig farm in North Las Vegas—along with Strauss Brands for veal and Southern California’s Santa Carota for beef. Kirrane and his staff, all of whom have some experience as chefs or cooks, use traditional methods and practices, with a nod toward English style.
“It’s really about two things, the welfare of the animal and the welfare of the people eating it,” Kirrane says.
It’s not unusual to see the Featherblade crew working on a whole hog or steer behind the counter while you peruse display cases full of specialty steak cuts and house-made burger patties and sausages. You’ll find products that aren’t available elsewhere in town, like proper back bacon, classic British bangers and Scottish Cumberland sausages.
There are also plenty of familiar choices, like Mary’s Free Range and Jidori chicken, Creekstone prime beef and local pork tenderloin and St. Louis-style ribs. The pricing is competitive.
“Everybody should be able to get good quality meat,” Kirrane says. “And I’m always saying to the guys that we’re in the education business. We’re always on hand to advise, since we do have some things that aren’t as familiar, and suggesting different ways to cook it.”
To advance that education process, Kirrane has launched Featherblade Evenings, a hands-on experience that keeps it friendly and informative and without delving into the super-technical aspects of butchery. You won’t just see how the sausage is made—you’ll get to try doing it.
Another bonus: the hot box on the counter, always full of flaky, pastry-wrapped sausage rolls and Cornish pasties with various savory fillings. These irresistible snacks have also helped Featherblade build its following of regulars.
“Already we know about a third of our customers by name, and that’s really cool,” Kirrane says. “We build a rapport and know what they like, and a lot of them always want to try something new.”
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Tags:Dining,Food
Brock Radke
Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of managing editor at Las Vegas Weekly ...
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